I've been in Laos for almost two weeks and I don't feel as though I've experienced Laos properly yet. My sentiments stem from how well I come to know people from that country rather than the people I meet on the way, but if the latter were the case I'd have to say that I found my family here.
On March 7th I departed from Cambodia in a flood of tears and with a mixed bag of emotions.
I certainly wanted to stay in this place, eating at our local; where they loved us, exploring on a bike, waving at and taking to locals from the back of a skilfully driven motorbike, hitting up the deliciously warm, man made lake and gazing at the stars which seemed to shine just that much brighter 2km out of the city. But...but a greater part of my mind told me I had to move on, that there was so much left to see and do in the short amount of time I have on this trip.
So. I left. Not 2 hours into the 12 hour drive our bus popped a tyre and we were stuck in something resembling a village for a coupe of hours while it was fixed. Subsequently we missed our connecting bus and spent the night in an almost tourist free town.
Although at first it seemed like we were going to expire after 1 day in this sleepy town, things picked up on a walk along the river where Cat and Lisa joined in with the local outdoor aerobics class and proved to be great entertainment for the rest of the village. Soon there were about 30 motorbikes full of people who had stopped at the side of the road to watch these two falang dancing in time with their friends, mums and aunts.
We then went for food and really met each other properly. Our group of stranded travellers consisted of Hicham aka Frenchy, who had managed to coerce the bus driver into paying for our accommodation and a free bus the following day.
Jenny, a German girl who has very dry humour and lucky for us a little something to keep us happy overnight.
Raechelle, a kiwi with interesting one liners and one of the most expressive faces I've ever seen.
Cat, my travel buddy from the start who everyone falls in love with immediately.
And Lisa who is actually so similar to myself it's rather freaky. Obviously I love her massively and not just because she realises when I'm quoting song lyrics in random conversations and completes them or because she rolls her eyes a millisecond before I do, but because she gives me the amount of cheek I give everyone else...perfect!
After a night of bonding over beers, music and laughter we all became best friends* and were instantly a team.
At the first rest stop we gained another team member: Tom from Seattle with the most impressive forearms Cat has ever seen! Also one of the the most humorous guys I've met in a while.
We finally arrived to 4000 islands after almost 2 days of travelling all feeling slightly weary and desperately hungry. The team stuck together, found a place to stay and went for food. After being moved on by the owner of our hostel for being too loud we walked along the dark main street and arrived at the beach where we chatted and watched the stars until we could keep our eyes open no longer.
The following day started really slowly which seems to be very in keeping with things here in Laos. A top tip for anyone travelling to Laos, anticipate being hungry at least one hour before you think you may want to eat, service here is very...relaxed!
After breakfast, which turned into lunch, we found bungalows with a view of the river at sunset and settled in. The day consisted of swimming to a nearby island, finding a 50ft bamboo stick and swimming it to our island, not very productive, but extremely funny.
That night we went to a reggae bar, played cards (obviously I kicked ass!) and had a generally hilarious time. By this point we were already a family and it was great to see how everyone behaved with each other as we relaxed and our real personalities came to the surface, rather than the meeting people personality which everyone has for a while in the beginning.
Frenchy loves to be in charge of us, telling us where to go and planning fun days, we all really appreciated his plans. Even if at times they were slightly harebrained! Planning while on 4000 islands consisted of frog marching us around the island in search of a bridge while we were all a bit hung over, hiring bikes and cycling to a famous waterfall over 'short cuts' of rice paddies, swimming in a lagoon finding a boat to take us to go and see very rare fresh water dolphins... I could go on!
We spent most nights hanging out on the porch of our bungalow listening to music and chatting. We met quite a few people this way who just came to hang out with a really diverse group of people. On the second night Christian aka Austria turned up and was almost immediately adopted into our wolf pack and hung out with us for the remainder of our time on 4000 islands.
The next morning the wolf pack split up leaving Germany and Austria on the shore of Don Det, as the girls headed for Vang Vieng and the boys to some caves. Although it had only been a few days it was an emotional farewell, those boys had really looked after us and their company was highly enjoyable.
Friday, 18 March 2011
Saturday, 5 March 2011
So we left that hostel and walked down the main backpackers street, trying to find a place to stay and feeling somewhat like Mary and Joseph with all the refusals we got!
Finally we gave up and sat down to get coffee. As I drank the best coffee I'd ever tasted, my spirits lifted and I hit the road again looking for a place to stay. We found a place, at least 6 flights of stair up, and settled in to the spacious dorm room- with air con! Luxury!!!
Although our time in Saigon started so badly, things soon got a lot better.
We spent some time exploring our surroundings and drinking a lot of coffee. Unfortunately I've become the caffeine addict I once was yet again, but it's so good here I can't resist.
One of the more interesting things was a visit to the tunnels near Saigon. This is one of the places where the Vietnamese Army hid and fought from during the war with America. It was so interesting to see how these people, who are naturally very small in their build used that to their advantage. The entrance to the tunnels was extremely tiny, and hidden so well. The biggest shock was the video at the end of our trip, it was so obviously filled with propaganda supporting the communist way and a great attempt at brainwashing us all. I was very glad that there were no Americans in our group as it was more than a little anti American. We followed the life of a nine year old girl who fought against 'the brutal killing men from america'... In her life she helped during the night, baiting the Americans to come closer to the rest of the army under the cover of darkness, during the day she farmed with the other children. "A rifle in one hand a plough in the other"
Very interesting indeed. It was almost as though that past of Vietnam is trapped in time and full of unforgiving.
I've started go become a more active member of couchsurfing.org which led me to be able to arrange a free guided tour of the city with a student who is studying tourism at university. He was great fun and took us around for a couple of hours leaving us with a group of his girlfriends with whom we hung out, got drinks and played the most popular game in Vietnam. The game involves playing keepup with something that resembles a shuttle cock. You can use any part of your body, the one rule is DON'T LET IT DROP!!! we managed to gather quite a crowd of amazed and amused locals as we played unsuccessfully for about 30 minutes...imagine, White girls playing sport!
We left Saigon feeling a greater love for the place than when we began and I would love to visit again, but maybe this time not arrive at 4am!
We left up the Delta Mekong and took a tour with a fantastic group of people. Including 2 awesome Aussies, one wonderful American and 2 class Canadians. There was also a family on the trip who were just fantastic. Back in Canada they're farmers for 6 months of the year and the remainder of their time is spent travelling. The kids are Amazing! So well travelled and so very clever. Of course being with them made me once again yearn for a family of my own, kids to show the world to and a partner to have all of that excitement with! Well one day!
We arrived in Phnom Penh very late at night after a bit of a hold up on the border as one of our group had overstayed in Vietnam. We, Cat, Kate, Phillip and I stayed at the first place we came to which had one bed and a thin mattress on the floor..oh joy!
The next night we went to look for a hostel and upon arrival we found that the week before it had been pulled down! In its place leaving a space that opened onto the lake at the bottom of an alley of hostels. Phillip, one of the Canadians, was still with us so we all got a room together at another hostel which was clean enough, despite the strange stains on the wall, which meant we were paying next to nothing for a night.
We soon made friends with many of the local tuk tuk drivers who had made our area into a place to chill, drink and watch the sun set beautifully over the lake.
Being taken under the wing of Sam a tuk tuk driver and Phil the hostel manager we experienced a Cambodian's Cambodia. We went fishing at a holiday spot for the locals, we were advised on where to go and what to see and we borrowed bikes to explore our surroundings.
Phil explained that all buildings in that area are going to be bulldozed to the ground within the next few months as they're redeveloping. Unfortunately the redevelopment consists of filling in the lake, and making a massive highway. I feel extreme lucky that we happened upon this hostel and all of these amazing people before this place no longer exists and these people are redistributed all over the city like cattle.
I was so sad to leave Phnom Penh, and all of the friends we made but as much as I hate to admit it, time is pressing and we've still got so much to do.
At this point I must mention that Cambodia has become my new favourite place in the world.
We then came to Siem Riep and checked into a beautiful, spacious room with a fantastic balcony.
Obviously we have visited Ankgor Wat and a great many other temples, each as fantastic as the last. Sunrise and sunset with a background of 1500 year old temples is something everyone should experience. I completely understand why it's one of the seven man made wonders.
Yesterday Phillip, who made the trip with us "borrowed" a motorbike and we spent the day burning around the city, discovering places we never would have known about otherwise and relaxing in the shade. An absolutely amazing day, but 3 on a bike is pretty snug!
Cat and I are leaving for 4000 islands in Laos tomorrow, I'm very sad to leave Cambodia and the people here, I must return.
Finally we gave up and sat down to get coffee. As I drank the best coffee I'd ever tasted, my spirits lifted and I hit the road again looking for a place to stay. We found a place, at least 6 flights of stair up, and settled in to the spacious dorm room- with air con! Luxury!!!
Although our time in Saigon started so badly, things soon got a lot better.
We spent some time exploring our surroundings and drinking a lot of coffee. Unfortunately I've become the caffeine addict I once was yet again, but it's so good here I can't resist.
One of the more interesting things was a visit to the tunnels near Saigon. This is one of the places where the Vietnamese Army hid and fought from during the war with America. It was so interesting to see how these people, who are naturally very small in their build used that to their advantage. The entrance to the tunnels was extremely tiny, and hidden so well. The biggest shock was the video at the end of our trip, it was so obviously filled with propaganda supporting the communist way and a great attempt at brainwashing us all. I was very glad that there were no Americans in our group as it was more than a little anti American. We followed the life of a nine year old girl who fought against 'the brutal killing men from america'... In her life she helped during the night, baiting the Americans to come closer to the rest of the army under the cover of darkness, during the day she farmed with the other children. "A rifle in one hand a plough in the other"
Very interesting indeed. It was almost as though that past of Vietnam is trapped in time and full of unforgiving.
I've started go become a more active member of couchsurfing.org which led me to be able to arrange a free guided tour of the city with a student who is studying tourism at university. He was great fun and took us around for a couple of hours leaving us with a group of his girlfriends with whom we hung out, got drinks and played the most popular game in Vietnam. The game involves playing keepup with something that resembles a shuttle cock. You can use any part of your body, the one rule is DON'T LET IT DROP!!! we managed to gather quite a crowd of amazed and amused locals as we played unsuccessfully for about 30 minutes...imagine, White girls playing sport!
We left Saigon feeling a greater love for the place than when we began and I would love to visit again, but maybe this time not arrive at 4am!
We left up the Delta Mekong and took a tour with a fantastic group of people. Including 2 awesome Aussies, one wonderful American and 2 class Canadians. There was also a family on the trip who were just fantastic. Back in Canada they're farmers for 6 months of the year and the remainder of their time is spent travelling. The kids are Amazing! So well travelled and so very clever. Of course being with them made me once again yearn for a family of my own, kids to show the world to and a partner to have all of that excitement with! Well one day!
We arrived in Phnom Penh very late at night after a bit of a hold up on the border as one of our group had overstayed in Vietnam. We, Cat, Kate, Phillip and I stayed at the first place we came to which had one bed and a thin mattress on the floor..oh joy!
The next night we went to look for a hostel and upon arrival we found that the week before it had been pulled down! In its place leaving a space that opened onto the lake at the bottom of an alley of hostels. Phillip, one of the Canadians, was still with us so we all got a room together at another hostel which was clean enough, despite the strange stains on the wall, which meant we were paying next to nothing for a night.
We soon made friends with many of the local tuk tuk drivers who had made our area into a place to chill, drink and watch the sun set beautifully over the lake.
Being taken under the wing of Sam a tuk tuk driver and Phil the hostel manager we experienced a Cambodian's Cambodia. We went fishing at a holiday spot for the locals, we were advised on where to go and what to see and we borrowed bikes to explore our surroundings.
Phil explained that all buildings in that area are going to be bulldozed to the ground within the next few months as they're redeveloping. Unfortunately the redevelopment consists of filling in the lake, and making a massive highway. I feel extreme lucky that we happened upon this hostel and all of these amazing people before this place no longer exists and these people are redistributed all over the city like cattle.
I was so sad to leave Phnom Penh, and all of the friends we made but as much as I hate to admit it, time is pressing and we've still got so much to do.
At this point I must mention that Cambodia has become my new favourite place in the world.
We then came to Siem Riep and checked into a beautiful, spacious room with a fantastic balcony.
Obviously we have visited Ankgor Wat and a great many other temples, each as fantastic as the last. Sunrise and sunset with a background of 1500 year old temples is something everyone should experience. I completely understand why it's one of the seven man made wonders.
Yesterday Phillip, who made the trip with us "borrowed" a motorbike and we spent the day burning around the city, discovering places we never would have known about otherwise and relaxing in the shade. An absolutely amazing day, but 3 on a bike is pretty snug!
Cat and I are leaving for 4000 islands in Laos tomorrow, I'm very sad to leave Cambodia and the people here, I must return.
Ok back to the update update stuff. I miss writing in a more serious vein at times..anyway. So much has happened, and it's a bit hard to keep updating as regularly as I should and also I'm not doing too well at keeping updated on the email front- please have patience with me!
At times I feel like we're rushing this trip far too much, but then if we are to see everything we want to we kind of have to keep this pace up.
We're almost leaving Vietnam, and I'm sure by the time I get around to posting this we will have already passed over the border to Cambodia.
Upon arrival to Saigon we were lept upon by about 20 men shouting "motomoto!!" or "you wanna taxi?" it was 4am and it was all so disorienting that my first impression of Saigon was one of complete dislike.
We'd left a perfect beach scene, some really nice friends, and the cooling sea breeze for this?! Over polluted, over populated smelly city. We booked into a hostel which had a room with no windows, no fan and a welcome mat of cockroaches. The heat was stifling and it was only 6am!
After trying to find one redeeming quality to the place and failing miserably we descended the 12 flights of stairs
Cripes I wrote this 3 weeks ago and forgot to finish and post it... Oh well!
At times I feel like we're rushing this trip far too much, but then if we are to see everything we want to we kind of have to keep this pace up.
We're almost leaving Vietnam, and I'm sure by the time I get around to posting this we will have already passed over the border to Cambodia.
Upon arrival to Saigon we were lept upon by about 20 men shouting "motomoto!!" or "you wanna taxi?" it was 4am and it was all so disorienting that my first impression of Saigon was one of complete dislike.
We'd left a perfect beach scene, some really nice friends, and the cooling sea breeze for this?! Over polluted, over populated smelly city. We booked into a hostel which had a room with no windows, no fan and a welcome mat of cockroaches. The heat was stifling and it was only 6am!
After trying to find one redeeming quality to the place and failing miserably we descended the 12 flights of stairs
Cripes I wrote this 3 weeks ago and forgot to finish and post it... Oh well!
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