On the bus we met two lads from England, Ant and Matt. Ant had been travelling for 18 months and had been to (I think) 26 countries. We hit it off almost immediately because i judged his music and he passed the test!  Matt had been away for 6 months and was the only person I've met travelling who was more than 100% ready to go home. 
After a freezing cold sleepless night on the sleeper bus we arrived in Bangkok at 4.30am and walked to a hostel that Matt knew from last time he was in Bangkok. 
I have walked along the streets of many big cities at that time before, returning from nights out, not being able to find sleep, coming home from holidays, going to the airport etc. But never have I seen streets so lively as they were in Bangkok. Clubs were still open, restaurants were packed, people were still completely wired and ready to go. The thing that struck me more here than anywhere else is South East Asia is that the mix of Thai to westerners was completely equal. it struck me as... I don't know. Partly sad because it would seem they've lost a way of life that their parents or grandparents would have lived, and partly happy because they're moving with the tines and as their city is becoming so very cosmopolitan so are these beautiful people.

I don't think we spent enough time in Bangkok, but the time we did spend there I loved. 
It, for me, was a city of firsts. First shisha (strawberry, and never a good idea when you still have a chest infection), first massage (sadly average at best), and first city in SEA where I've splashed out!
The heat was almost unbearable, and we spent quite a bit of time in the shower or the ever air conditioned 711 (newsagent chain) in order to bring our temperature down. 

The first day was spent in Art Centre of Bangkok. (we got a local bus and were very proud of ourselves!) If you ever visit Bangkok please go here! It was 7 floors filled with art work from all across the world. 
I was really impressed by the young artist of the year show, it's so interesting to not only look at the work, but also read what they each had to say about their influences. 
That's something I have found missing, and not just a little bit irritating, at galleries in England and New York, titles of work and a description. We're supposed to look at a piece of art work that looks like something a 4 year old ADHD child has produced while watching Ben 10 and draw our own conclusions on how "uber fantastic and original" this artist is. Meh. Call me old fashioned, but I like my art to look like art. 
Anyway-when did I become a grumpy old woman?!- I also really liked the exhibition that focused on how the river that runs from China all the way to Bangkok and beyond is changing due to dams and other man made things being built. The economy of all of the different people groups that live along the river have had to change to incorporate the loss of their livelihood. Very interesting and devastating stuff. 
That night ended with a drunken group of friends and me, being on antibiotics, very sober but having a very enjoyable night nonetheless. 

Another day we went to a park which was nearby and hung out there for a bit watching the most incredible break dancers aged 12-20 or there abouts, playing with the hula hoops, standing to attention when the national anthem was played, laughing at the aerobics group which contained the campest and most enthusiastic man I've ever seen do aerobics not dissimilar to this. (spiderman will make you gay) absolutely fabulous! Met up with the boys again and went to watch some football at a bar, which was actually just a VW camper van with a 40" tv out of the back with tables and chairs set up in a line near by. Nice bar though, and the sweetest bar guy. Soon though the heavens opened and the sort of rain that would fall over a couple of days in England fell in a few hours, we all got soaked to the skin, but enjoyed it!

The air of anticipation in Bangkok at the moment is absolutely amazing! Every family is in holiday mode for Song Kram. Song Kram is a festival of water which includes everyone, whether you like it to or not. Water guns in all shapes and sizes are for sale everywhere, there have been processions going through the street advertising the holiday for those who don't know about it, Koah San Road has been transformed into a festival street with streamers and bunting down the length of the street. It's going to be a great time and a welcome celebration with this level of heat. Unfortunately we're leaving at midnight the day before it starts--bah! 
Oh well not to fret, we're headed to the philippines so things aren't that bad!